In Mandy Aftel’s book, Fragrant, she calls this perfume “Chameleon,” I think because with the alcohol version we are invited to experiment with it by adding touches of various animalic ingredients. In the solid version, this is a a fairly straight-forward orange blossom-tobacco composition, with pink grapefruit top notes.
Here’s what you need to create Orange Blossom-Tobacco solid perfume:
- Jojoba oil
- Grated beeswax
- Tobacco absolute
- Orange flower absolute
- Pink grapefruit essential oil
*Out of courtesy to the author, I’m leaving off the amounts of each raw material. You can find them in her book.
- Box grater (for grating beeswax)
- Measuring spoons (for beeswax)
- 80 ml lab casserole (for melting beeswax)
- 10 ml graduated beaker or cylinder
- Glass eyedroppers (1 per essence)
- Small glass of alcohol for cleaning eye droppers (place them in it upright after use)
- Stirring rod
- Hot plate (can also use stovetop)
- ½ oz tin (for storing perfume)
- Paper towels
- Cover your work surface with paper towels.
- Add the Jojoba oil to the graduated beaker.
- Next, measure out each of the essences into the beaker of oil. Tobacco, orange blossom, then grapefruit. Sniff after each addition.
- When you are done with an eye dropper, place it in the glass of alcohol, and pump it a few times to clean it, and leave it sitting full of alcohol.
- Measure out the grated beeswax into the lab casserole. Hold the lab casserole over the burner until the wax melts.
- Quickly pour the essential oil blend into the liquid wax. Working over the heat, stir the blend into the wax for about 10 seconds until it’s a smooth mixture.
- Finally, pour the molten perfume into the ½ oz tin, cap it, and leave it alone for 15 minutes to solidify. Don’t touch it or you’ll burn yourself and/or mess up the nice smooth surface. Finis!
How did it work? How does it smell?
Wow – I’ve got a yes/no response to this one. I looooooove orange blossom so very much, and the absolute is gorgeous. The tobacco provides an interesting, dense and pungent base – but I’m not sure I’m in love with it. Like the Clary Sage in the Mint Vetiver blend, I find the tobacco overpowering. I want to love this, but the tobacco at this intensity pushes me away. Perhaps I’d like it better at a lower concentration. The pink grapefruit is an easy-going and friendly top note, always welcome.
Notes on Notes
- Blond Tobacco Absolute, Nicotinia Tobacum, France, Nicotene-Free, Liberty Naturals – Viscous amber-brown. Clean pipe tobacco. Earthy, dry, only lightly sweet, RICH, thick/powerful.
- Orange Blossom Absolute – Fine, Eden Botanicals – Love! Honeysuckle, green-white floral, a little sharp, intense, refined, sharp green leading edge
- Pink Grapefruit EO, Citrus Paradisi, USA, Eden Botanicals – happy citrus, sunny, sweet, acid, tart